Perhaps the most traumatic
event in the life of your crab, not to mention the trauma
for the owner, is a molt. Often for me it begins by checking
on my guys in the morning (I find that they like to do it
during the night). A momentary flood of panic washes over
me when I see crab bits strewn around the Crabarium. "Oh,
no. Has he been mutilated, or is he ill?" Then as I realize
I have a molter on my hands, I REALLY begin to panic!
Molting (or moulting
to our Aussie buddies) is the natural process by which your
crab grows. Like all arthropods, they have a hard exoskeleton,
or outer shell which does not grow. So about once a year,
depending on the size, age, and eating habits of the crab,
they will shed their "exo" to complete the growth process.
They will also take this opportunity to re-grow any limbs
lost or damaged after the previous molt. "But Jad," you
ask, "is there anything I can do to help my little guy out?"
I'm glad you asked.
There are some
tried and true methods, and then there are more experimental
ones. In this article, I'll deal with standard methods,
and will leave cutting edge advances to another day. I will
also focus on the above substrate molt. Probably about 95%
of my guys molt on the surface. Let's examine the molting
process in segments:
The
Pre Molt
If you're going
to help your crab prepare for a molt, you'll need to know
what to look for, right? There are several telltale signs.
Some of the more common are: cloudy eyes (like cataracts);
slow and lethargic movement; hanging out on the sponge,
in the waterdish, or other damp locale; digging in a wetting
the sand, and the appearance of gel limbs, if the crab has
any missing claws or legs.
Gel limbs are
proto-limbs, buds that are the beginning of appendages that
were lost previously. They appear well before a molt, but
get larger and often darken as the molt nears.
Many land hermit
crab owners like to isolate their crabs at these first warning
signs. I usually don't, because when I do, my crabs stay
in a little one-gallon critter keeper for three weeks without
molting. Of course, when I replace them back in the tank
they molt immediately. Usually, I wait until the deed is
done before transferring them to an iso tank. My iso tank
is about a half-gallon, and I keep it inside my main tank.
It is easier to control the humidity and temperature levels
this way.
During this pre-molt
time, there are a few things you can do to help: Pre-molt
baths in water treated with Stress CoatŪ by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
is helpful and practiced by most crabbers. Some more advanced
methods include giving your crab honey or Gatorade to give
them that little sugar rush to help them increase energy.
Some advocate applying natural aloe to parts of their exo.
This helps soften the exo.
During the Molt
Not a whole lot
to do here. just sit and watch. It is important not to disturb
them during the actual even. If possible keep the environment
warm, humid, and dark.
Post Molt
Congratulations!
The molt is over.. You're about halfway there. This is often
the hardest period for them to get through. If you had just
spent several hours sloughing your skin, I bet you'd be
exhausted, too! Unfortunately, everything might seem to
go right, but the crab still may not make it through this
critical time. To help increase your crab's chances of success,
consider these tips:
.
- At this point,
the crab should definitely be isolated. His soft pink
exo is vulnerable to nefarious crustaceans. If you haven't
already done so, GENTLY transfer him to a spare tank,
or an iso unit. Some people will take a section of a 2-liter
soda bottle with the top and bottom removed to instantly
section the crab off with out moving him.
- Like any other
traumatic medical procedure, what the patient needs most
is peace and quiet. Try not to handle the crab at this
point unless it is absolutely necessary! Too much activity
at this point can result in limb damage or loss, and stress
to the crab.
- Be sure to
keep the crab's old exo to munch on. This helps replenish
the calcium lost in the molt. I will usually save the
uneaten portions of the exo for later molters. If the
exo has already been ravaged by Crabarium-mates, then
cuttlebone or sterilized eggshells will do.
If the iso unit
the crab is in is dry, you may want to mist your lil' guy,
because humidity is also important at this time. Remember
not to overdo it; a gentle spritz is all it takes. A nearby
damp sponge will also help.
After about a
week or so, the patient will be ready to rejoin society.
Most of the exo will have been consumed; generally the tough
leg tips and large feeder claw will be all that remains.
At this time your hermit might want to slip into something
more comfortable- a bigger shell. Be sure there are several
to choose from. Of course, he may like the one he's already
in, thank you very much. They're so picky about their shells,
aren't they?
For them, it's
exhausting, and for us it's nerve-wracking. Either way,
it ain't fun. However, your crab's molt need not be a death
sentence. With a little preparation and TLC, both you and
your crab will get through it fine. It just takes a little
practice and a lot of patience. Pretty soon, you will both
be old hats at it. You'll be calm and reserved. until the
next molt begins, then it's panic city all over again. Oh,
Well.
|
